The History of Newquay
Newquay has amazing natural features; I don’t just mean the beaches. Over thousands of years it’s two river estuaries, high cliffs, farmland, fish, minerals, and climate have attracted visitors to the area.
In The Beginning….
Hunter-gatherers followed the Red Deer down from Bodmin Moor to the meadows and estuaries during the warm summer months. They left their flint tools, stone axes and waste in higher areas.
Settlers followed using the estuaries at the Gannel to the west and Porth to the North to cultivate crops and raise cattle. Prehistoric burial mounds are proof of ancient civilisation in such places as the Barrowfields facing out to sea in the heart of Newquay bay. At one point there were as many as 15 barrows. Ancient burnt pots and jewellery have been excavated from these barrows.
The presence of tin and iron gave the area significant importance. The development of smelting gave way to an early Industrial revolution with tools and weapons being produced and traded with neighbours.
Bronze Aged settlements were built, one has been found at Trethellan Farm over looking the Gannel River. One of the best examples of a hill fort settlement and industrial centre in Europe can be found on Trevelgue head next to Porth Beach.Many of its defensive ramparts can still be seen today. It is claimed that the occupation of the site was continuous from the 3rd Century BC to the 5th or 6th Century AD.
The Middle Ages
In the 1300’s there is mention of The Gannel as a Cornish port trading significantly with Wales and Ireland. During medieval times the area around Towan beach gave shelter to a small fishing village. By the 15th century the village was called "Towan Blystra" — "Towan" sand hill/dune in Cornish meaning. However the anchorage was exposed to winds from the north east and in 1439 an application was made to Edmund Lacey, Bishop of Exeter for leave and funds to build a "New quay" from which the town takes its modern day name.
Towards Today’s Newquay
In 1801 the British Census recorded 1300 inhabitants of St Columb Minor and surrounding area, which was still the “known” Parish for the area. This would have included the fledgling village of Newquay. The parish of Newquay was created in 1882. It was the arrival of the railways in 1876 that really led to the rapid development of the town.
1. The Harbour Area
The train lines were taken through the town and down via a tunnel into the harbour to finish on a jetty along side the boats themselves. From here China Clay and Tin could be loaded into boats for transportation to Bristol and South Wales. Once the trucks were empty they were loaded with hogshead barrels full of Pilchards that had been “baulked” in the cellars at Newquay harbour, they were to be eaten by the guests of the hotels and restaurants in London.
The Fish industry in Newquay was hugely important to the people of the area with most being employed working in the harbour or its associated businesses.
2. The Huer's Hut
First the fish had to be caught. The Huer’s Hut is an incredibly important part of Newquay’s history. The small round building is perched up on the cliff above the harbour on Towan head over looking Newquay Bay. The building is thought to date back to the 14th Century. With it’s over sized chimney it can be seen for many miles up the coast. This was the home of the Huer, Cornish for “crier”. The Huer’s job was to keep watch for the arrival of the Pilchard shoals and then alert the fishing fleet and towns folk to their arrival.
Once a shoal was spotted the Huer would use a large horn to cry “Hevva” “Hevva” (from the Cornish word “Hesva” = Shoal). Then once assembled in the bay, the Huer would direct the fleet to the shoal using a system of hand held flag signals. There is also the story of the “Hevva” Cake, a Cornish speciality which was made to celebrate the catch but that’s another story!
The Huer’s Hut is now a grade two listed building. It still stands today, it is well preserved and a wonderful place to visit during your stay, with the little stair case leading up the side of house to the platform where the Huer would have blown his horn.
3. The Fish Cellars
Once the fish were caught they were bought into the harbour to the fish cellars for “baulking”. Baulking was usually carried out by the women folk, it was process of layering and salting the Pilchards. The weight of the fish would cause the juices and oil in the fish to drip out and down a gulley where it was collected and used for many things including the lamp oil in the street lights of the town. The pressed fish would be compacted into Hogshead barrels, a barrel would hold approximately 3000 fish and the fish in turn would produce approximately 9 to 10 gallons of oil. Once the barrels were full they were sealed for export or transport via boat or train. In a good year up to 40,000 barrels would be exported bringing a handsome return to the town.
The three cellars where the fish were processed were called Active, Good Intent, and Fly. “Fly” and “Good Intent” burnt down in 1922. The largest cellar was “Active” situated above the North Quay of the Harbour. There are still sections of this important piece of Newquay’s history to be seen. The Fish Cellars were above ground and basically looked like a loft constructed above a courtyard. The Loft section of Active still remains and is worth a visit to sit back and imagine the hive of activity and commotion as the boats arrived back with their catch. Just along from Active are the promenades where Fly was situated and north again Good Intent.
The Gigs
Another important part of Newquay’s history that can still be seen today is the Gigs.
The Cornish pilot gig is a six-oared rowing boat, built of Cornish narrow leaf elm, 32 feet (9.8 m) long with a beam of four feet ten inches. It is recognised as one of the first shore-based lifeboats that went to vessels in distress, with recorded rescues going back as far as the late 17th century.
The original purpose of the Cornish pilot gig was as a general workboat; the craft was used for taking pilots out to incoming vessels off the Atlantic. In those days a race between the working gigs would be held, the first gig to get their pilot on board a vessel (often those about to run aground on rocks) got the job, and hence the payment.
All modern racing gigs are based on the “Treffry” built in 1838 by William Peters of St. Mawes, and still owned and raced by the Newquay Rowing Club.
Take a look at the gigs housed down at the Harbour. The Newquay Rowing Club is the epicenter of Gig racing worldwide and “Treffry” gig is the “jewel in the crown”. Gig racing takes place throughout the summer months and is a great spectator sport if you hitch a ride on one of the many pleasure boats that follow them around the course.
There are 7 gigs in Trust to Newquay Rowing Club. Three of them are named after The Cellars being called Active, Good Intent and Fly.
The Birth of Tourism
The Town of Newquay as we know it today has developed from the Hotels that were built at the turn of the century to cater for the commercial and travelling visitors that were coming to the town at that time. Hotels such as the Headland, Atlantic, Victoria and Bristol, fuelled the tourist trade. Bringing people down to enjoy the clean air and “healthy” bathing waters of Newquay.
The town had expanded quickly eastwards to incorporate the area around the Train Station. The Garth Hotel was the last house marking the eastern edge of the town at the time of the First World War standing at the border of the Barrowfields and the North end of Tolcarne beach.
By the 1930’s the houses along Narrowcliff were turned into hotels such as The Tolcarne, Beresford, and Cliffdene.
After the Second World War the area around Chester Road was developed. The development of Henver Road completed the connection out to St Columb Minor and Porth areas in the 1950’s, with Lusty Glaze area being developed in the 1960’s.
Today, Newquay has a new face with many of these old hotels reaching the end of their useful lives, new purpose built luxury apartments are now being completed, making the most of the area’s incredible natural features …which I believe is where we started.